By: Jacob Kophamer
As you garden, stop focusing on the plant, the light, the water, fertilizer, or pesticides. Some of these things are needed, even essential, and some of them are harmful and completely unnecessary. If you want your garden to do more than survive, whether it consists of trees, shrubs, perennials, herbs, or is a vegetable garden, you need to stop, grab a shovel, and dig into the soil before even considering putting a plant in the ground.
It is so easy for gardeners to overlook the soil, perhaps because it lies beneath our feet and is not the product, but it is the most fundamental and necessary resource of all. Perhaps you see it as just an area to secure the plants roots, after all, in our modern minds, fertilizer will take care of the plants needs – or does it?
Soil has confounded scientists for generations. In the 1600’s it was believed that plants consumed the soil to grow. It wasn’t until Jan Baptist van Helmont came along and conducted an experiment where he planted a 5 pound willow in a pot with 200 pounds of dried out soil. After five years of giving the willow only water, the tree weighed 164 pounds, and the soil had lost a mere 2 ounces of weight. Van Helmont decided the tree grew solely from drinking water. It wasn’t until the 1800’s that it was finally put together that plants grow by drinking water and taking in the carbon that they require from the air.
Plants acquire elements from three places.
1. Atmosphere
2. Water
3. Rocks
Carbon and Nitrogen come from the atmosphere, hydrogen and oxygen from the water, and rocks supply everything else through the soil microbiome. The primary needs for plants are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), but never forget the micronutrients (like zinc & iron), if they are lacking the plant will not be able to grow properly. This is the law of the minimum,
The nutrient in shortest supply relative to the plants needs limits plant growth.
Before I go further about the plants needs and how it relates to the soil, it is vital that one thought be embedded into your mind.
Stop thinking of soils as a growth medium, stop thinking of them as dirt. Start thinking of soil as a living organism, because it is.
Gardeners need to view soil as the gut of our plants – the gut of the world.
In humans, the gut is every bit as precious and crucial to your life as the brain. What do I mean? Throughout your body and starting in your gut is a second entity, a separate life force which is totally outside of your own control, this is your microbiome. Take away the brain and you cease to live, take away the gut, and more specifically, the microbiome, and you will die. Similarly, Injure the gut and microbiome and you will suffer substantial health consequences. The gut is the key to your immune system, and we wreak havoc on it every day. This is why researchers now call your gut, the second brain, because it is not your brain which primarily controls your immune system, but your microbiome. Yes, the majority of your health comes from living organisms that are not even a part of your body.
The microbiome of a healthy individual will have well over 30,000 different species of bacteria and any number of the 300,000 species of parasite, 5,000,000 species of fungi, and 1031 viruses. These bacteria, fungi, parasites, and viruses work together to control your immune system, and make the food you eat into energy. That’s right, without your microbiome, without the millions of invisible creatures that are not even your own cells, you could not turn the food you eat into the energy you need to live. How does it work then? You eat your dinner, perhaps it is a balance of green beans, sweet potato, beets, and a steak. It is impossible for your cells to use any of these foods as they are, so you eat to feed your microbiome, they break down the food into sugars, fat, and proteins. The proteins are converted to glucose by your liver. Still, the sugars and fats are completely unusable by your cells. The blood carries the sugars and fats to the mitochondria in your cells, mitochondria are bacteria-like organisms living inside your cells, they break down the sugars into ATP, the only material your cells can use. Talk about the perfect symbiotic relationship. Without a foreign legion of life called the microbiome, which outnumber your own cells, you would not exists, isn’t that miraculous?
This means, those cravings you have all the time are not your brain speaking, it is the bacteria in your gut controlling your thoughts because they want a greasy hamburger. As a side note, if you only crave foods considered ‘bad’ it is because the microbiome in your gut has been diminished to only those who want those foods. To get away from those cravings, you have to diversify your gut, you do that by diversifying what you eat and immersing yourself in the greatest source of microbial life there is, the soil.
Diversity brings health, both to your body and to the soil.
Just as with your gut, the same is true for your plants. Plants are not meant to survive without the soil microbiome. Without the microbes, perhaps the most essential nutrient of all to plants, Nitrogen, is completely unavailable to plants, despite the atmosphere consisting of 78% nitrogen. Bacteria and fungi take nitrogen from the air and convert Nitrogen (N2) into ammonium (NH4+) a form which plants are able to use. This is accomplished with living nodules on the roots of legumes, there are also nitrogen fixing bacteria that do not form nodules, and some trees actually get nitrogen from fungi that scavenge for it on bedrock! Nitrogen is also delivered to plant when the microbes in the soil die. You could look at bacteria and fungi as little nutrient bags, either being eaten and excreted by larger microbes or dying and then releasing the Nitrogen.
Without healthy soil, more specifically, without soil that has a healthy microbiome, and a properly diverse and healthy food web, your garden will never function in a proper manner, let alone thrive, it will always be weak, immune deficient, and nutritionally deficient – a drug addict just waiting for its next hit of N-P-K (most of which misses the minuscule rhizosphere and continues down to the water table). But if you nurture the soil, that incredible gut of the earth, then your garden will be a success without the need for fertilizer, pesticides, and herbicides. If you heal the soil and provide diversity below and above the soil, your garden will not have the issues that require harmful chemicals, your garden will grown faster, larger, better tasting, and healthier plants, because nature is absolutely amazing at protecting itself, it was created and continues to adapt to live on.
The best thing about this is even if your soil is dead, pure clay and glacial till, no signs of earthworms or other life at all, you can rehabilitate that soil in a few years, creating a garden that no longer contains drug addicted plants, just struggling to survive while producing tasteless, nutrient deficient fruits which have no benefit to your own gut health at all.
Where to start?
Grab that shovel or a trowel and head to the spot you want your garden to be, or head out to your existing garden. Make sure your garden is located in a spot which will meet your lighting needs. Some vegetables want full sun, others want partial shade. If you only have a full sun spot, that is okay! The great thing about gardening is that you need diversity and I strongly encourage that diversity to be blended together. If you have some plants that need a bit of shade, plant them beneath and around taller, sun loving plants.
It’s important to get a feel for the state of your soil. Do this simply by digging a hole in your garden plot.
1. Dig a hole that is about 1’ x 1’ and 1’ deep.
2. Is your soil clay, loam, sandy, rocky?
3. Is the color light, medium, or dark brown?
4. Do you see any life in the square foot of soil you just excavated? How many worms or beetles are there?
More than likely if you are on a typical lot, the soils are less than desirable. This is because what a house needs to sit on to give it support is vastly different and the complete opposite of what you want for the soil in your garden. You’ll probably find compacted clay, there may even be trash and rocks mixed in. The color will be light tan or maybe even gray. There is probably very little life to be found. If you found earthworms, rejoice! Earthworms are the best friend of gardeners. Did you find 60 earthworms? Once your soil is rehabilitated you could find close to that number in a single square foot of soil!
Once you know your soil situation, it is time to formulate a battle plan to rehabilitate your soil. The plan will be largely the same no matter what condition your soil is in, but if your soil is dead and extremely poor, it will take more treatments to catch up and create a rich, living, soil.
As with any living organism, soil needs food, not drugs (fertilizers, insecticides, herbicides) these cause harm first to your plants and microbiome, and then to you as you eat the plants or are exposed to the chemicals and as they pass into the water system. Then what do you feed your soil? Maybe you have already started too and just haven’t realized it yet. If you use a wood mulch, preferably cedar, you may have noticed that it always seems to disappear each year. Maybe you are getting tired of this and considering rubber or rock mulch? Don’t do it. That mulch is doing one of its most crucial jobs, feeding the microbiome of your soil, and particularly giving the soil carbon.
Carbon is one of the crucial needs for your garden as all life is carbon based. Common sources of carbon include, mulch, dried leaves, cardboard, newspaper, or egg cartons. So stop sending boxes to the recycling and instead shred them and add them to your compost. If you don’t have room for a compost pile, you can always use a small container. If you don’t have a container for compost, now would be the time to get one. It doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive, a bucket or canister with a lid will do just fine, especially as you start out.
The need for carbon by plants and the microbiome can not be overstated. In fact, if gardeners and farmers immediately switched from conventional commercial practices, which kill the soil causing billions of tons of soil erosion and chemical runoff into our waterways, and changed to regenerative agriculture and organic principles, the problem of global warming would disappear. The soil microbiome captures, uses, and stores so much carbon that if we changed to regenerative farming and gardening, soils would capture 2.5 times the amount of carbon as the next best method! Global warming has accelerated due to dead soils not being able to do their jobs, a direct consequence of pharmaceutical farming.
Carbon is only part of the soils diet. The other part of the equation is organic matter. This is the material that carries nutrients for the plants but also the food for the microbes which break down the rock in the soil into nutrients for the plants. Organic matter may also be described as the nitrogen containing portion. Organic materials can be, vegetables, grass cuttings, coffee grinds, egg shell, banana skins, basically anything you would eat and that grows (not meat), go ahead and throw it all into your compost container, pile, or worm bin.
Composting
As you compost, you’re looking for roughly a 30 parts carbon to 1 part organic material. There are several methods for creating and applying your compost, and some methods do not require the material to be composted prior to application. One of my favorite methods is an old Native American composting method, trench composting. This method is great if you are just starting a garden and want to begin by restoring the soils (as should always be done), if you have a plot of garden not being used, or if it is fall and you are ready to get a very early start on next year (again highly recommended).
Trench Composting
Trench composting allows you to see your soils come to life in a matter of weeks. Once you have your compost buried, the microbes will begin to eat and multiply, drawing in even more, diverse varieties of bacteria and fungi. As the invisible digesters go to work, it won’t be long before larger life appears to reap the benefits of your organic material. Soon, earthworms and nematodes will be there to feast, turning the organic matter into rich, dark soil material and earthworm castings.
Once you have a good amount of compostable material (or you can do small patches at a time if all you have is a small container) dig a trench through the garden or areas of the garden you want to compost. The trenches should be around 6-8” deep and 1’ wide. Pile the soil just outside of the trench. Dig a trench every 2’ on center. The idea is once you have put your organic material into the trench there should be at least 4” of soil covering the compost. This layer of soil provides a buffer in the fall months against the freezing temperatures, allowing for the microbes to continue their work longer. It also allows for moisture retention, a must for the microbiome to function and compost the organic materials. Digging these trenches could prove difficult in many cases due to compaction. Just remember, the steps you are taking to bring the soil back to life will correct this issue and make planting and digging easier in the future.
Once you have your trenches dug, pour in a layer of your organic materials into the bottom of the trench. You don’t want to fill the trench with material, just a layer several inches thick will do. Cover this with the soil you removed, don’t pound it down, we want to minimize compaction in our gardens. Give the area a good watering and keep the soil moist for the weeks that follow (if doing in the fall to over winter, keep moist until the freezes start). Yes, you will be watering an empty garden to the unknowing mind, but you now realize that you’re actually giving life to the unseen world beneath our feet.
If you have done this during the growing season the process should take about 4-6 weeks to completely break down and compost the material into soil. Resist the temptation to plant anything during the composting period, the process occurring will do more harm than good for your newly sprouted plants.
At four weeks dig in and see how the process is going, hopefully you find a rich, darker brown material teaming with earthworms and life you can’t even see. There may still be some material, if there is, cover it back up and give it a few more weeks to finish, you’re almost there!
What if little has happened? You may need to introduce some life into your soil. This can be done in a couple of ways. Go buy some earthworms from a local fishing supply store and add them to your garden. It is probably just as vital to get your microbial life counts up. Consider brewing a good batch of compost tea (microbial soup) and watering with that once a week. Compost tea provides some nutrients but, more importantly, it is the perfect environment for microbial growth, you will literally be pouring trillions of microbes into your soil giving it a much needed boost. Read on for information on compost tea.
If you do this in the fall, and I recommend you do every fall, simply cover your trenches and let them sit until spring. The soil biome will feast over winter and revitalize your soil for the next growing season.
Tied into the fall trench composting is what to do with the dead plant material from the past years garden? If you have a compost pile you can use it there. For those who don’t, I would recommend pulling the material and adding it directly back into the trenches. Most of the nutrients taken from your soil are not in the fruits you eat, but are still in that decaying material. By simply putting those plants back into the soil you are gaining back a large portion of the nutrients that were lost.
This method alone will provide your soil with nutrients for growing, but more importantly, boost your soil microbiome into life. Now you can really begin to garden, but as you do, your journey of feeding the magnificent world is only just beginning.
Pile Composting
Mulching should always include more than just wood chips if at all possible by incorporating a quality compost, either mixed in with the wood mulch or as a layer before adding wood chips. Composting is a simple process and can be made in a couple of ways, pile or worm bin.
Composting is straight forward, all you need are four elements.
1. Organic material
2. Moisture
3. Oxygen
4. Time
Organic materials are things like cardboard, grass trimmings, dried leaves, food scraps, etc. Please note that vegetable scraps are not always recommended due to scavenging animals being draw in by the scraps. As with our trenching compost, we are looking for a 30 parts brown (carbon) to 1 part green (nitrogen).
Step 1: Form a pile that is 3’-4’ on each side, and around 3’-4’ in height. As you make the pile, add just enough water to ensure the moisture content is like that of a wrung-out sponge.
Step 2: Now you wait. The temperature inside the pile should rise to anywhere between 130 °F and 160 °F. This range decomposes the organic matter and sterilizes and weed seeds that were present in the pile.
Step 3: To oxygenate the compost pile, occasionally turn the pile (use a pitch fork to dig in a flip the pile) and add water to keep it moist.
Step 4: After 30 days, primary composting will be finished. At this point decomposing slows down, the temperature will drop as the compost matures for another 30 days. At the end of this period your compost is ready to be added to the garden mulch!
Worm Bin Composting
Worm bin composting is a great method to get rich compost that is complete with worm castings, which are rich in organic material. Again, this is a simple process that uses common materials like, newspaper, vegetable scraps, and dried leaves. A worm bin is faster than pile composting and takes up less space, which is great if you are in tight quarters.
Start by building or buying a worm bin. If you aren’t particularly handy, you can always find a bin pre-made. They don’t have to be large, around 3’x2’x1’ will do. Worms live in the top 8” of soil, so around a foot is a good height for the bin. Plans for a worm bin will be added soon to our website.
Step 1: Add shredded newspaper or dried leaves, a little water, food scraps, and worms. Cover that with a layer of newspaper or leaves. Close the lid.
Step 2: Let the worms do the work.
Step 3: After 3-4 weeks you will have incredible worm casting compost.
Consider using this for your compost tea/microbial soup!
Another worm bin composting method which creates two separate harvests.
Step 1: Add food scraps to half of the bin and worms. Cover and let the worms work for three weeks.
Step 2: At three weeks start the other half of the bin with layers of newspaper or dried leaves, and food scraps.
Step 3: Worms from the food end will move into the other half where the new material is.
Step 4: Harvest the compost from the first half and use now as the second half composts for another 3-4 weeks.
Mulching
Mulching is no longer just about soil moisture retention and the inhibiting of weed growth, it is a source of food for the soil microbiome. Gardeners have had complete success at rehabilitating their soils simply by proper mulching. To be successful you’ll need more than just wood chips. Keep in mind the 30:1 ratio of composting.Reference the compost ingredient table. You’ll want the same ratio in your mulch, just with a higher amount of wood chips.
In addition to wood chips, you should add leaves, coffee grinds, plant trimmings, chicken manure, Zoo Doo, Buffaloam, compost, etc. Basically anything that is in a solid form. Do not use food scraps in the mulch, beside the obvious reason of having decomposing food sitting out in your garden, it will draw scavenging creatures onto your property. Once you have your mulch prepared, spread it out wherever you don’t have plants growing. Be sure to leave a little space around the your plants as having mulch directly against the stem of a plant can cause harm to the plant. If mulch is lain directly against the stem, any insects that are dangerous to plants and living in the mulch have direct access and cover to your plant. Giving several inches of separation will help in protecting your plants.
Mulching twice a year is ideal. Once in the spring as you plant and again in the early fall. As your soils come to life, you will find it necessary to mulch multiple times as the mulch is broken down by the microbes and turned into soil. You can also mulch in a two layer approach. First, lay down a couple inches of compost material, then lay down a 3” layer of cedar mulch (non-dyed) on top of that.
This simple task which uses materials you probably have already or can easily get (if you don’t have a tree, ask to rake up your neighbors leaves) will create incredible new soil and give the existing soil what it needs to support its microbiome, all within several seasons.
Cover Crops
If your soil is in desperate need of Revitalization, it probably means it is also hard, nearly rock hard. In this case, get your trench composting completed and consider cover cropping before you plant. If it is a vegetable garden, cover crop over the fall and winter.
Cover crops not only protect from erosion, but they send roots deep into the soil, in some cases feet down, some of the cover crop should have thick tap roots to break through the hard soil and get air and organic matter into the soil. Many of the plants in a good cover crop will add nutrients back into the soil, such as clover, which was discussed earlier.
What is in a good cover crop mix? Varieties of clover, wheat rye, winter wheat, hairy vetch, daikon radish, forage collards, fenugreek, and yellow mustard to name a few. Plant in the early fall to get them established before winter and in the spring turn them into compost. There are some examples of planting a cover crop along with your actual crop. One example of this were rows of strawberries, with a nice, short, cover crop surrounding the berries. Beyond providing nitrogen for the strawberries use, the diversity of plants surrounding the strawberries will offer protection through diversity.
Compost Tea – Microbial Soup
The final element to bring your soil back to life is, life itself. Everything discussed so far is about giving the soil the food and conditions that the microbiome needs to thrive. Microbial soup brings trillions of bacteria and fungi directly into your newly created habitat which is designed just for them! Of course, you could let nature bring in the microbes alone, as it will inevitably do, but compost tea gives a burst of life, and if you have plants showing stress, it may be exactly what they need to rebound.
The idea of compost tea has been around for some time, but until I really understood the soil microbiome, I just saw it as a way to liquefy nutrients and get it to the plants faster. As I have already explained, compost tea should have little to do with nutrients. In, The Hidden Half of Nature, and compost tea was briefly discussed there, this formulation is based off the recipe from that magnificent book about soil microbes in the garden.
Microbial Soup
Ingredients & Materials
– 5 gallon bucket
– swirling water aerator (or just a bubbling aerator will work)
– 1 gallon nutrient solution (see my recipe or buy some)
– 1 bag (quart) of worm compost
Recipe
1. Fill the 5 gallon buck with nutrient solution, worm compost, and water (leave some space for aeration).
2. Insert and turn on aerator
3. Let aerate for 8-12 hours
4. Spray on entire garden and plants
Nutrient Solution
One of my hobbies is brewing, recently I took up growing and using my own native yeast instead of buying packets from the brewery store. To feed the native yeast, which comes from the air, you make a nutrient solution. The same is true for your microbial soup, the microbes need a solution to feed on as they multiply. This recipe is very similar to what I use for brewing.
Ingredients
– 15 cups Water
– 18 Tbs Blackstrap Molasses
Recipe
1. heat water to 185 degrees F
2. Add molasses and mix thoroughly
3. Keep at 185 degrees F for 20 minutes (do not boil)
4. Pour liquid into a glass container and sit in a bed of warm water. Let sit for 15 minutes.
5. Move glass container into an ice bath until temperature reaches 70-85 degrees F
Your nutrient solution is ready to be added to your compost tea.
At a minimum, I would give the garden a good spray in the spring as you start planting and again in the fall a little before the first frost. Consider keeping some on hand for if a plant starts to take a turn for the worse. For the best results, make a batch, and spray your garden once a week.
Diversity
What is the big deal on plant diversity? One of the major components is to protect from insects. Plants give off a scent and certain types of insects are attracted to certain kinds of plant scents. When you have a monoculture those plants are together and giving off large amounts of a single scent, and if the plants become stressed, the insects sense that and become even more interested. When you have diversity and a garden not setup as monoculture patches, the scents of the various plants mix together and the insects cannot pinpoint the scent they are looking for and so they are highly unlikely to find your plants and if they do it will be very minimal. To further enhance this effect, grow herbs throughout your garden. Plants like marigolds are great for discouraging insects from entering your garden, with the added benefit that they are edible! If you are growing flowering perennials, keep in mind that you should ‘deadhead’ your plants to encourage additional flowering. Deadheading is simply cutting off spent flowers as they start to drop their petals. This process is a little tedious, but keeps the plant from using resources to create seeds, encouraging additional flowering.
Another way diversity works is in the soil microbiome itself. When you have a healthy and diverse microbiome, harmful pathogens are unable to take hold and cause problems. The example I use is, a murder isn’t going to kill in a plaza full of people, but if that plaza is empty and it’s night, that is when he could act. The simple fact is, with a diverse microbiome there is too much competition for the food resources for pathogens to cause problems.
Those good bacteria and fungi also do something incredible, they coat the roots and leaves of the plants, making a barrier against pathogens. In essence a diverse microbiome is a shield against pathogens and pests. Look for our “Soil Food Web” articles to learn more about how healthy soils means healthy plants.
Time is now
The time is now to restore your soil and break your addict plants from their drugs. With a little dedication you can accomplish this by restoring the soil, and doing your little part to heal a damaged world. It goes beyond just helping the soil, by taking these actions you are improving your own health in more ways that you probably realize. Happy gardening!
To find out just what health consequences modern gardening and agriculture practices have caused read, Addicts – Coming Soon!